Monday 3 June 2013

My Maiden Pilgrimage to Vrindavan

We zoomed through the heavy traffic of the Mathura town in an auto-rikshaw. Managing to reach the station just ten minutes prior the train departure, we darted inside the railway station. After enquiring about the platform we looked back to find Amit P missing. Scanning the platform we found him resolving some issues with the ticket at the ticket counter. ‘Haribol, Pr let it be, we will miss the train’, I shrieked. With only three minutes remaining before the departure we hurried through the foot over bridge to the other platform. We all boarded the train hoping Amit Pr will follow. About a minute passed and the train departed. I peeped outside the window to check if Amit Pr is coming. I was pleasantly shocked however as he announced ‘Bad luck the matter wasn’t settled, we have to travel without reserved seats from Allahbad to Kharagpur’, from inside the train. We exchanged a few loving curses. As we jiggled past the birth place of Sri Krsna—Mathura, remembrance of my maiden pilgrimage to Vrndavan veiled my thoughts.
Day 1: Perceiving Purity:  The first place we visited in our Vrndavan Parikrama was Kaliya Ghat. The place where Krsna took the leap into Yamuna to subdue Kaliya. HG SAP explained how envy is the root of material existence. If envy is removed then all the anarthas will cease to exist. Monkeys of Vrndavan taught us an important lesson which prji revealed. The monkeys took away some of our foot wears. Most of us were in anxiety looking after our foot-wears. Prji explained at present we have very less assets still they keep us in anxiety. What will be condition of one married and having family and many assets. From Kaliya Ghat we made our way to Radha Madana Mohan Temple. A magnificent sight to behold  even though ravaged by the Mughals. Prji described the beautiful pastime of how these deities as Madan Gopal were manifested to and worshiped by Advaita Acarya. Advaita Acarya had given these deities to a devotee named Purushottam Dubey, from whom Srila Sanatan Goswami obtained Madan Mohanji. He also described how once one merchant, Kapoor, was helped by Srila Sanatan Goswami when his ship was stuck in Yamuna. As a token of gratitude he had offered to build the Madan Mohan temple. Visiting Srila Sanatan Goswamis bhajan kutir was heart touching. Purity was emanating from that place. We concluded the day with realisation session while honouring Prasad.
Day 2: A ceremonious circumambulation: We set out early on the second day for the parikrama. We went to the Madan Mohan temple, took darshan. Then we proceeded towards Chir Ghat, where the pastime of Krsna stealing the clothes of the gopis took place. Going further was a very special place—Imli Taal. A pastime specially significant for the Gaudiya Vaisnavas took place there. Once during rasa-lila Srimati Radharani disappeared suddenly. Krsna was crestfallen in separation of Radharani. He sat under a tamarind tree and started meditating on Srimati Radhaarani. Due to His meditation on the golden form of Srimati Radharani, Krsna assumed a golden complexion. Then He predicted that in future He shall appear in this form. This was the prediction about Lord Chaitanya Mahaprabhu’s appearance. We had a difficult time chanting at the temple there, most of us were dozing off. Going further we reached the beautiful Keshi Ghat, on the banks of Yamuna. In his talk HG SAP mercifully rebuked us for dozing off in chanting. He explained: Imagine that we are feeling very drowsy and a beautiful girl comes near us, then immediately we will become alert and active, but for the sweet holy names of Krsna we have no attraction. He narrated the pastime how once Balaramji had dressed like Krsna. That was the time when Kesi demon attacked. Balaramji was kicked by the demon and He flew in the air. Later Balaramji gave away the attire of Krsna, illustrating that we should not try to imitate the great souls. We took three drops bath in the Yamuna. HG SAP commented that the pitiable plight of Yamuna was a systematic plan of the government to destroy the holy places.
Next we funnelled through the streets of Vrndavan to visit the Radha Damodar temple. We were fortunate to get the darshan of 4 deities, the prana dhana of great acaryas in Gaudiya Vaisnava  sampradaya. 1. Radha Damodar—Worshipped by Srila Jiva Goswami. 2. Radha Vrndavan Chandra—Worshipped by Srila Krsna Dasa Kaviraj Goswami. 3. Chaila Chikan—Worshipped by Srila Bhugarbha Goswami. 4. Radha Madhava. One devotee in the temple requested HG Sankirtan Ananda P speak in the temple room for everyone. Therein he described how this Radha Damodar temple is specially significant for the followers of Srila Prabhupada. He also informed that Radha Damodar temple is the center of whole universe. We prayed at the samdhis of Srila Rupa Goswami and Srila Jiva Goswami. Gaudiya Vaisnavas are also called Rupanugas, followers of Rupa Goswami. It was a great fortune to be there at his Samadhi and beg for his mercy. We then saw the room where Srila Prabhupada stayed deeply absorbed in prayers to Srila Rupa Goswami, and scrutinizing study of the Goswami literatures. His kitchen window gave a purifying view of the samadhis. We then made our way to the Radha Raman temple. The deity was worshipped by Srila Gopala Bhatt Gosvami. We also visited the samadhi of Srila Gopala Bhatt Gosvami. Back to the temple we contemplated on the plan to visit Sri Giriraj Govardhan. A visit that would become my most cherished memory of VOICE life.
While waiting for a taxi outside the temple, Krsna made arrangement for our bodies and language to be smeared in Vraj-raj, dust of Vrndavan, with a mild sand storm. Rain followed and rendered our scenic trip to Sri Giriraj Govardhan, a soothing experience. Chanting all the way an occasional appearance of the peacocks enlivened my heart. Darshan of Sri Giriraj Govardhan was elevating, we paid obeisance to the great devotee of Krsna, looking forward to the parikrama, eager to learn more.
At 7pm we set out for Govardhan parikrama, with Mrdanga Kartal and Vaisnava Song book. Ankit P and Raman Raja P stayed back to arrange for our dinner which we would take on the parikrama. Albeit walking slowly we soon reached a very special place: Govind Kund. A small playful boy led us through a dark path way to the kund. The kund was dark as well, moon was hiding behind tree tops. An atmosphere which would otherwise send tingle up my spine, amazingly, felt relaxing. All of us settled down on steps of kund, barely able to see each other. Monkeys screeching at a distance, and fishes swimming nearby made the background sound for our discussion. I wanted to suggest we just take darshan and revert to our parikrama. The confidence of devotees to hear about the significance of the place sitting there insipired me. Govind Kund is the place where Indra came with Surabhi cow to beg forgiveness for sending devastating rainstorms to Vrndavan. He coroneted Krsna as Govinda(the enlivener of the senses and the cows). At Govinda kunda the great Vaisnava Acarya Srila Madhavendrapuri would chant incessantly. [He would not even go for begging food. If someone offers food he would accept. In this way, once, he remained hungry for many days. A beautiful cowherd boy approached and offered him milk in a earthen pot. Madhvendra Puri enquired, why he had brought the milk. The boy said that He had learned from the ladies who come to fill water there that Maddhvendra Puri had not eaten anything since many days. “Every one gets enough food in my village, if he begs. For those who don’t beg, I personally feed them. Please take this milk”. Madhavendra Puri accepted the milk, the boy went away. When he drank the milk it was nectarine. Same night boy came in his dream, revealing himself as Krsna. He instructed Madhavendra  Puri to excavate Him from below the bushes. He was lying below the ground for many years and was now feeling very hot. He asked him to establish Him at the top of Govardhan. ] Gopalaji appeared to him here and instructed him to install Him at the top of Govsrdhan. Srila Madhavendra Puri did so and celebrated anna-kuta festival everyday for one full year. Prabhu told that in Krsna’s time anna-kuta was for only one day but the devotees are more eager to celebrate the Lord’s pastime, therefore there was anna-kuta for one full year. We learnt how gopis called Govardhan a better devotee than them. Prabhu related the pastime of appearance of Govardhan on earth and its travel to Vrndavan. Our discussion was interrupted by call by Raman Raja Pr enquiring our whereabouts. Carrying a heavy sac of food items they had already crossed the Govind Kund area. We darted out to the parikrama road, purchasing a couple of battery torches on the way.
We soon met Raman Raja P and Ankit P who raised their hand a shouted ‘Haribol’. Raman Raja P eagerly enquired from me, which place we visited and what did HG SAP speak there. Moving ahead we found a temple with an open compound, and made up to have our dinner there. A lone young caretaker generously accommodated us. It was 10 o’clock. Aditya K P offered the bhoga. Raman Raja  P and Aditya K P served all devotees in their usual motherly way. There was samosha with dry fruits inside( the most delicious I had ever tasted), puffed rice(mudi) topped with finely cut tomatoes, lemon juice and bhujia. The delicious petha and rabdi will be the most unforgettable sweets of my life. By 11:15pm we had made a nice mess in the compound as to enrage any owner. But ours looked tolerant. We cleaned everything up thanked him, gave him little charity and resumed on our parikrama.
Moving ahead we reached ‘Puchari ka Lota Baba’. Lota Baba is a cowherd boyfriend of Krsna, who did not consent Him going to Mathura. Krsna assured Lota Baba that he would return in a few days. Lota Baba decided to wait for Krsna at the place where they had separated. He also decided to fast till Krsna returned. Krsna never returned. Lota Baba has been fasting for all these thousands of years waiting for Krsna. It is explained how although fasting for many years he is getting fatter—because of being nourished by the remembrance of Krsna. HG SAP taught that we should be similarly patient for the mercy of Krsna to dawn in our lives. Enthusiasm without patience is mode of passion, patience without enthusiasm is mode of ignorance. Enthusiasm with patience is ideal. As if still not sure whether we will complete the 21km parikrama in the night itself HG SAP asked our opinion about carrying on right away, or resting there and starting early morning the next day. Many pilgrims who were marching confidently on the parikrama path gave us confidence, and we danced ahead with the beat of the Mrdanga and chime of the cymbals chanting Hare Krnsa alongside Govardhan.
Path was lonely with vast field on both the sides, moon was the exclusive source of illumination. Our LED torches helped little.  An otherwise grisly setting seemed extremely safe with the chanting of the Holy Names, association of devotees and Govardhan by the side. Peacocks warbling at a distance mingled musically with the kirtan. We kept dancing ahead for a long time—till 2 am. We reached Uddhava kund, where we halted to discuss about the great devotee. Udhhava is a very dear devotee of Krsna. We discussed how Uddhava was amazed to see the devotion of the gopis of Vrndavan for Krsna and desired to become a grass in Vrndavan.
As we danced ahead, limbs ached. But relentless we progressed singing Jaya Radhe Jaya Krishna… Hare Krsna and other songs in turn. Attached to a regulation in sleeping; night out parikrama  was an outlandish idea. I would better savour the opportunity to purify myself I thought, however. Soon we reached the climax of the parikrama—Radha Kund and Shyama Kunda. Glorified as the holiest spot in the creation, the placid waters of the kund offered a congenial opportunity for Mangal Arati, the earliest I ever attended—at 3.30am in the morning. However I again felt sorry as drowsiness dominated me. This is very much true in daily course of my devotional service also—so much mercy is available but I evade by not being attentive and conscious about it. Next we visited the Bhajan Kutir and Samadhi Mandir of Srila Raghunath Das Goswami, our prayojana acarya. I was enthused to see old devotees performing keertans before the break of the dawn. On coming out we walked through the alleys. A few Vrajvasis walked around, preparing for the morning program. I was moved with the attitude of the devotees in the area. As they saw us performing keertans they would bow down every time they would encounter us. We came across a milk shop and drank some before we moved ahead.
As the dawn broke, we beheld an astonishing scene. Children, young and adult devotees would prostrate on the footpath of the parikrama path, moved ahead to the point there hand could reach and again prostrate to reach ahead. His Grace Sankirtan Ananda Pr explained they were performing dandavat parikrama. Vrndavan had more in store although. We saw a person paying repeated dandavats at the same place. Each time shifting a pebble from the pile near his foot to the pile near his head as he would prostrate. Amazed we learned that he was doing 108 dandavat parikrama!
The beautiful sight of Kusum sarovar delighted us beyond expectations. Beautiful darshan of Sri Sri Radha Banbihari was very soothing. Light of the sun also unveiled beautiful peacocks atop the trees. Soon we reached Mukharavinda—the mouth of Govardhan and our final destination. Inside in the temple devotees offered milk in the mouth of the Govardhan. We also took darshan of the Manasi Ganga. Coming out of the temple a board declared—‘You have successfully completed Govardhan parikrama’. We chanted our way to the accommodation. We took rest for few hours and then departed back to Vrndavan.
Day 3: Carrying home ‘Vrndavan’:
Back in Vrndavan I anticipated some more exciting visits. Our next destination was Radha Gopijanvallabha temple. The glories of Ghanshyam Baba who was serving Radha Gopijanavallabha is extolled by HH Radhanath Maharaj which made the visit all the more interesting. In there we discussed about the mood of service of Vrndavan and developing Vaisnava relationship. I feel this is the mood I need to cultivate in my heart so that I can experience Vrndavan where-ever I go.

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